All Articles
Dries Van Noten’s show on June 22nd marked the end of a dynasty. It was the final presentation of Van Noten’s 150 collections, the last runway show of his 129 appearances, and the culmination of his 38-year career. Additionally, it concluded a nine-year partnership between the Belgian designer and casting director Piergiorgio Del Moro, which encompassed 24 shows and countless cherished memories.
For this momentous occasion, Van Noten reunited everyone at the warehouse outside Paris where he had staged his 50th show. The event drew renowned designer icons such as Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Thom Browne, and Diane von Furstenberg, all paying homage to the beloved brand and cultural legacy crafted by Van Noten. A surprise guest was future Hall-of-Fame basketball player Russell Westbrook, who credited a 2019 Van Noten show as his fashion catalyst: “Ever since then, I’ve been inspired by what he’s accomplished.”
Regardless of the stardom in attendance, there was an unmistakable air of nostalgia and melancholy amidst the usual excitement and anticipation that accompanies a Van Noten show. As attendees set aside their martini glasses and moved towards the silver-sprinkled runway, friends rested hands on each other’s shoulders, gently wiping away the tears that were bound to come, hoping that the show, yet to begin, would never reach its conclusion.
Invariably, there was a conscious thematic sentiment towards ‘time.’ Before the first look was presented, a recording of David Bowie played out on the big speakers: “Time… one of the most complex expressions, memory made manifest.” Despite this being his finale, Van Noten didn’t want to be a prisoner of the past and present a ‘best-of’ collection. He wanted to do what he has done for his previous 149 collections: to offer a way forward and to propose a new way to dress tomorrow and onwards. His intentions became clear once the models started walking out one by one. Van Noten’s signature popping colors started coming out in the later half of the show after a series of more monotone looks. The innovative transparent organza looks pointed towards the future, but Van Noten still gave a nod to history with some outfits utilizing suminagashi, a thousand-year-old Japanese print technique. There was also a good mix of young models at the start of their career walking alongside veterans—Alain Goussin, who starred in Van Noten’s first menswear show, opened up his last. According to Piergiorgio Del Moro, he and Van Noten tracked down many of the retired models through instagram, and every single of them said “yes” emphatically.
Dries Van Noten is stepping away from the day-to-day operations of being the Creative Director for his eponymous brand, but he will still advise the design team from afar. Nevertheless, there was a sense of an ending that day; all the attendees felt it, but Van Noten didn’t want people to think that way. As the adored 66 year old designer bowed for the last time and disappeared into the curtains, a huge disco ball was revealed as bartenders started filling cups and DJs began queuing songs. Van Noten didn’t want everyone to cry for his departure, but instead dance, drink, and celebrate the promise of tomorrow.
Piergiorgio / DM Casting is a part of Exposure NY’s casting division. Exposure NY is a photography/styling agency in New York City.
